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Prédiction déterministe de houle par mesure du profil de vitesse

Abstract : This PhD thesis presents a new method for deterministic sea wave prediction, able to accurately describe the evolution of non linear sea states while keeping the computation time reasonable. Particular attention is paid to the quality of the wave phase information. Contrary to classical approaches relying on free surface elevation measurements, information on the incident sea state is collected here in the form of instantaneous horizontal wave velocity profiles upstream of the area of interest. This kinematic information is used in a nonlinear propagation model based on a pseudo-spectral approach, allowing to avoid the data assimilation step usually required in this kind of model. This greatly reduces the computation time while maintaining the prediction quality. This work presents a feasibility study of this method for long-crested waves. In the lack of an instrumentation dedicated to the measurement of instantaneous horizontal velocity profiles, an original method is developed to reconstruct this information from acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) measurements, thus extending the current application scope of these sensors. Numerical sensitivity studies then evaluate the quality of the prediction obtained for various measurement configurations and sea states. Lastly, we present the trials conducted in Centrale Nantes' towing tank, which provide an experimental validation of the method for unidirectional waves. The good numerical and experimental results obtained make this method a promising approach.
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Submitted on : Wednesday, September 22, 2021 - 5:42:10 PM
Last modification on : Thursday, September 23, 2021 - 3:23:15 AM


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  • HAL Id : tel-03351959, version 1



Marion Huchet. Prédiction déterministe de houle par mesure du profil de vitesse. Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]. École centrale de Nantes, 2021. Français. ⟨NNT : 2021ECDN0025⟩. ⟨tel-03351959⟩



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